Elie Saab's classic fall couture has foliage, shimmer — and capes for men

PARIS (AP) — Elie Saab again transported his VIP guests, including Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding at Paris’ Musee des Arts Decoratifs, to a realm of magic and splendor. With silks and velvet, the Lebanese couturier once again conjured a fantastical, almost fairytale world of bridal queens, gleaming foliage and midnight shadows. This season, the fashion world also had another peek at couture for men, which is a slowly growing phenomenon.

Here are some highlights of Wednesday's fall-winter 2024 couture collection.

The Lebanese designer’s fall collection came with dramatic flair, strikingly at midnight, enveloping the audience in a welcome dark mood. Models in black leather opera gloves and graphic bands of black satin set the tone.

Men’s couture capes, part of Saab’s theme since fall 2022, were embroidered with sequins and gleaming threads, resembling silver foliage kissed by morning dew. Saab’s opulent men’s couture line continues to add a new dimension to his brand, catering to a market segment that craves visibility.

In the predominantly women's display, organza whooshes swirled upward from the waist in a feat of artistry. As the collection progressed, the color palette softened. Tried-and-tested floor-length silhouettes dazzled in gemstone hues.

A standout piece was a shoulderless gown in powder red, where sequins on the bodice morphed into a sea of feathers cascading down the mermaid-like skirt. The transformation of textures underscored Saab’s craftsmanship.

While Saab’s designs may not always break the mold in innovation or surprise, the commitment to his signature style ensures that his creations remain timeless. His starry clientele appreciates the red carpet-ready classicism. Wednesday's influential front row was a testament to Saab’s enduring appeal.

Dynamic design duo Viktor & Rolf are often praised in couture for thinking outside the box. This season, they expanded the box – literally and figuratively. Couture looks paraded past a visibly amused VIP audience, morphing models with cubic and rectangular structures. One of the first creations featured minimalist fabric with rectangular shoulders, as if the model had been wrapped as a gift or encased in couture for some sort of luxury delivery. Topping off the look, she donned a red, dog-collar-hybrid neck adornment that added an extra layer of whimsy.

Elsewhere, the boxy structures beneath garments riffed on the concept of rigid shoulder pads, recalling in a tongue-in-cheek way the glamour years of Hollywood. The pièce de résistance was a clashing ensemble featuring a blue houndstooth shirt, pastel-striped mini skirt, and a Bordeaux embroidered jacket with gargantuan, box-like ‘shoulder pads’ towering above the model’s forehead. It was a sight to behold, blending past and future in a surreal collision.

“The human body intersects with three-dimensional, abstract geometric shapes like cubes, triangles, and spheres ... as well as from a child’s block set,” the house said, acknowledging “a certain absurdism.”

Known for their theatrical presentations, Viktor & Rolf once again delivered an engaging and entertaining show that transcended traditional fashion. Hairpieces were stiff and android-like, whimsically swept by the wind, enhancing the surrealist and ironic humor that has become their signature.

Their meticulous construction techniques and structural experimentation shone through, recalling past feats like exaggerated shoulder lines and detachable corsets from a Nosferatu-inspired show. This season’s designs were not just garments but a commentary on fashion itself, and the absurdity of couture. Viktor & Rolf have once again shown that they are the grand architects of high fashion, deconstructing and rebuilding the box with every stitch.

French couturier Julie de Libran is renowned for her intimate shows. She often enlists her close friends as models and muses, evoking a nostalgic charm reminiscent of traditional couture presentations.

On Wednesday, de Libran took her signature style even further with the models, including the designer’s niece Julia and even de Libran herself!

Models held numbered cards, a nod to the historical way collections were once presented for a light and airy display.

This vintage touch was complemented by details like a pink feather trim on a limp-waisted gown, which exuded a 1930s flair. Yet, the gown’s vivid red hue injected a contemporary twist.

De Libran’s affinity for vintage-inspired fabrics shone through in a Bordeaux column dress and a coat with large proportions, both adorned with gleaming lamé velvet flowers. These pieces exemplified her commitment to high-quality craftsmanship and upcycling. Using exquisite fabrics from Lyonnaise mills, her creations are often unique and cannot be replicated, highlighting the artisanal nature of her work.

As a rare independent designer on the couture calendar, de Libran continues to captivate with her blend of nostalgic elegance and modern sophistication.

In the Paris luxury industry, the art of the chic invite is vital. Fashion houses vie to create the most inventive and flamboyant show invitations, often delivered by gas-guzzling couriers to each guest’s personal or professional address, with little regard for the environment.

The miniature masterpieces sometimes hint at the forthcoming collection, while at other times they are simply whimsical.

Chanel’s latest invitation, a pair of opera glasses, hinted at the show’s theme inside Paris’ opera house. Staying true to its classic roots, Dior sent out beautifully penned cards by an age-old calligrapher, evoking the maison’s timeless elegance. Schiaparelli’s giant gold key invitation reflected the surrealist legacy of founder Elsa Schiaparelli, promising an avant-garde showcase.

A model wears a creation for the Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for the Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for the Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for the Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for the Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for the Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for the Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

Models wear creations for the Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

A model wears a creation for the Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

Models wear creations for the Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

Models wear creations for the Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented Wednesday, June 26, 2024 in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

NEW YORK (AP) — Paul Skenes pitched two perfect innings in his Yankee Stadium debut and the Pittsburgh Pirates hit five homers, including four off rookie Luis Gil, in a 9-4 win Saturday,

New York (93-68) later clinched home-field advantage throughout the American League playoffs when Cleveland (92-69) lost to Houston. The Yankees won the season series against the Guardians and hold the tiebreaker.

Yasmani Grandal and Nick Gonzales hit solo homers in the first four innings off Gil (15-7). Rookie Billy Cook in the fifth and Jared Triolo in the sixth added two-run drives. Nick Yorke hit a two-run homer in the ninth against Will Warren.

New York has lost four of five and opens the AL Division Series at home Oct. 5.

Aaron Judge followed his third game off this season with his third five-strikeout game, his first since May 5, 2021.

In front of 46,069, New York’s 17th home sellout, Skenes threw 23 pitches to six hitters. He threw four over 100 mph, including three to Juan Soto and Aaron Judge.

“He was outstanding,” Pirates manager Derek Shelton said. “We knew it was going to be a shorter start. This is a really tough lineup and he executed pitches throughout the first six hitters.”

With girlfriend and LSU gymnast Livvy Dunne in the stands, Skenes threw a 99.8 mph fastball on the high, outside corner that Soto took for a called third strike. Judge struck out swinging at a sweeper that was outside.

A top contender for NL Rookie of the Year, the 22-year-old right-hander finished 11-3 with a 1.96 ERA in 23 starts and 133 innings — 29 innings shy of qualifying for the National League ERA title. He struck out 170 and walked 32.

“It was cool definitely glad to be able to finish the season,” Skenes said. “Cool to do it here, cool to do it against this lineup.”

Skenes is the first rookie pitcher with a sub-2.00 ERA and at least 23 starts in a season since Scott Perry for the 1918 Philadelphia Athletics, according to STATS,

“I wish I saw some more pitches,” Yankees catcher Austin Wells said. “He looked good out there and got six outs and that’s all I really saw.”

Gil allowed six runs and six hits in 5 2/3 innings, finishing with a 3.50 ERA. He had only allowed 14 homers in his first 28 starts.

“He’s had a great year,” Wells said. “Being a rookie starting pitcher for the Yankees and putting up what he did, he’s been amazing.”

Gonzales homered for the second straight game, a drive after his bat slipped away taking a practice swing in the on-deck circle. Yorke clanged his second career homer off the left-field foul pole.

“The guy that started for them is probably going to be the Rookie of the Year in the American League and is a special young arm, special pitcher and the fact that we had good at-bats and was able to grind, I was really proud of our group,” Shelton said.

Jazz Chisholm Jr. broke up Pittsburgh’s no-hit bid in the fifth with his 11th homer since being acquired from the Marlins on July 27 and then added an RBI double in the eighth. Soto hit an RBI single but ended the seventh by overrunning second base.

Mike Burrows (1-0), who underwent Tommy John surgery on his right elbow April 26, 2023, followed Skenes and threw 68 pitches over 3 1/3 innings to win in his major league debut. David Bednar struck out Chisholm to strand the bases loaded in the sixth.

Former Yankee Aroldis Chapman struck out Judge and retired Wells with the bases loaded for his 14th save in 19 chances.

TRAINER’S ROOM

Yankees: 1B Anthony Rizzo fractured the fourth and fifth fingers of his right hand when he was hit by RHP Ryan Borucki’s 88.2 mph slider in the seventh. Rizzo was replaced by INF Oswaldo Cabrera starting the eighth. Rizzo’s postseason status is uncertain.

UP NEXT

LHP Bailey Falter (8-9, 4.26) closes the regular season for the Pirates. RHP Clarke Schmidt (5-5, 2.55), a candidate for New York’s postseason rotation, makes his fifth start since returning a strained lat that sidelined him for more than three months.

AP MLB: https://apnews.com/hub/MLB

Pittsburgh Pirates' Aroldis Chapman pitches during the ninth inning of a baseball game against the New York Yankees, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in New York. The Pirates won 9-4. (AP Photo/Frank Franklin II)

New York Yankees' Aaron Judge reacts after striking out during the sixth inning of a baseball game against the Pittsburgh Pirates, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Frank Franklin II)

New York Yankees catcher Austin Wells watches as Pittsburgh Pirates' Yasmani Grandal hits an RBI single during the ninth inning of a baseball game, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Frank Franklin II)

Pittsburgh Pirates' Nick Yorke (38) celebrates with Yasmani Grandal (6) after they scored on a two-run home run by Yorke during the ninth inning of a baseball game, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Frank Franklin II)

Pittsburgh Pirates' Paul Skenes smiles after the second inning of a baseball game against the New York Yankees, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Frank Franklin II)

Pittsburgh Pirates' Paul Skenes pitches during the first inning of a baseball game against the New York Yankees, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Frank Franklin II)

Pittsburgh Pirates' Paul Skenes pitches during the first inning of a baseball game against the New York Yankees, Saturday, Sept. 28, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Frank Franklin II)