Italy’s antitrust watchdog is investigating the online fast fashion giant Shein for potentially making misleading claims about its sustainability practices.
The country’s independent competition authority said in a statement that the greenwashing probe would focus on Infinite Styles Serves Co. Limited, a Dublin-based company that does business as Shein and operates the online retailer’s website and app.
Shein was founded in China but is now based in Singapore. It has had a meteoric rise in the world of retail, fueled by a business model that allows it to churn out apparel based on real-time demand and deliver it directly to customers from factories primarily located in China.
That has helped the company offer products for ultra-low prices and attract shoppers who can go on its website to buy $11 sweaters, $2 cellphone cases and other products from a quickly updated assortment of items.
But Shein’s critics have long argued the company’s practices encourage overconsumption and environmental waste, problems which the retailer has said it is working to combat.
However, Italian officials are accusing the company of misleading consumers with claims about the environmental sustainability of the clothing it sells. Environmental organizations have alleged such deceptive practices, known as greenwashing, occurs across the corporate world.
Italy's anti-trust authority, whose abbreviated name in Italian is AGCM, alleges that some of the environmental references on Shein’s Italian website are deceptive or omit information. Images promoting Shein’s clothing as sustainable are also done “through generic, vague, confused and /or misleading environmental assertions,” the authority said in its statement.
In particular, the watchdog cited information from Shien’s “evoluShein” collection, which it said may have misled consumers into thinking the clothes they bought from the collection could be recycled.
AGCM also alleged that the stated commitment to decarbonization featured on Shein's website were in “apparent contradiction” with the increases in greenhouse gas emissions that Shein included in its sustainability reports for 2022 and 2023.
The online retailer said it would cooperate with the Italian investigation.
“We would also like to take this opportunity to reaffirm our commitment to complying with the laws and regulations in the markets where we operate and to maintaining transparency with our customers,” Shein said in a statement.
Shein has been facing challenges elsewhere in Europe. Critics and advocacy groups such as Amnesty International UK have opposed the company's possible listing on the London Stock Exchange due to labor and environmental concerns.
FILE - A page from the Shein website is shown in this photo, in New York on June 23, 2023. (AP Photo/Richard Drew, File)
GRAYSON, Ky. (AP) — Clad in a drab gray jail uniform, a Kentucky sheriff displayed no emotion at his first court hearing Wednesday since being accused of walking into a judge's chambers and fatally shooting him — a tragedy that shocked and saddened their tight-knit Appalachian county.
Letcher County Sheriff Shawn “Mickey” Stines, 43, pleaded not guilty to murder and answered questions about his personal finances as a judge pondered whether he needed a public defender to represent him.
Stines, who is being held in another Kentucky county, appeared by video for the hearing before a special judge, who is standing in for the judge who was killed, Letcher County District Judge Kevin Mullins.
The sheriff stood alongside a jailer and a public defender, who entered the not guilty plea on his behalf. Stines' expression didn't seem to change as he answered questions from the judge.
The special judge, Carter County District Judge H. Rupert Wilhoit III, conducted the hearing from his courtroom in northeastern Kentucky. There was no discussion of a bond during the hearing.
If convicted, Stines could serve from 20 years to life in prison. Since he's accused of killing a public official, the sheriff also could potentially face the death penalty.
The Lexington Herald-Leader reported that when it asked whether prosecutors plan to pursue the death penalty, special prosecutor Jackie Steele said: “Any decisions regarding the death penalty will be done at a later date when all the evidence has been processed and the case has had a thorough evaluation.”
It was the first time the sheriff was seen in public since the shooting, which sent shockwaves through the small town of Whitesburg near the Virginia border.
The preliminary investigation indicates Stines shot Mullins multiple times on Sept. 19 following an argument in the courthouse, according to Kentucky State Police. Mullins, 54, who held the judgeship since 2009, died at the scene, and Stines, 43, surrendered minutes later without incident. He was charged with one count of first-degree murder.
Police have not offered any details about a possible motive.
The Kentucky attorney general's office is collaborating with the special prosecutor in the case.
Much of the hearing Wednesday revolved around Stines' ability to pay for his own attorney.
Josh Miller, the public defender who appeared alongside Stines, said the sheriff could incur significant costs defending himself and will soon lose his job as sheriff, which Stines said pays about $115,000 annually.
Kentucky Gov. Andy Beshear wants to hasten the sheriff's resignation.
In a letter sent to Stines at his lock up, the governor's general counsel called on Stines to submit his resignation to Letcher County's judge-executive by the end of Friday. If he fails to do so, Beshear will move ahead with his removal, the letter said, citing a state law allowing for removal of “peace officers.”
During the short court hearing Wednesday, Wilhoit asked Stines if he had been looking for an attorney to hire. Stines replied: “It’s kind of hard where I’m at to have contact with the people I need to.”
Miller said the cost of defending Stines could ultimately cost several hundred thousand dollars.
Wilhoit appointed Miller to defend Stines at the next hearing in October but warned Stines that the trial court could require him to pay for his own attorney.
In Letcher County, residents are struggling to cope with the courthouse shooting. Those who know the sheriff and the judge had nothing but praise for them, recalling how Mullins helped people with substance abuse disorder get treatment and how Stines led efforts to combat the opioid crisis. They worked together for years and were friends.
Mullins served as a district judge in Letcher County since he was appointed by former Gov. Steve Beshear in 2009 and elected the following year.
The front of the Letcher County Sheriff's Dept. office is shown on Friday, Sept. 20, 2024 in Whitesburg, Ky. (AP Photos/Dylan Lovan)
This booking photo provided by Leslie County Detention Center in Kentucky on Friday, Sept. 20, 2024 shows Letcher County Sheriff Shawn M. Stines (Leslie County Detention Center via AP)
