Kamali's sophomore show for Chloé in Paris dazzled with lightness

PARIS (AP) — Chemena Kamali’s sophomore collection for Chloé was a luminous exploration of femininity, blending the house’s heritage with a fresh, sensual energy for spring. Set against a backdrop of sun-faded apricots, blushes and soft whites, the Paris collection captured Kamali’s vision of a summer that she surmised as: “when you pause, escape, explore and recharge.” It celebrated Chloé’s free-spirited DNA, infused with a lightness that felt both nostalgic and forward-looking.

Here are some highlights of Thursday's shows at Paris Fashion Week, including a French honor for Naomi Campbell:

“There’s a liberating expression of total freedom,” Kamali said of her spring display.

This freedom flowed through silk charmeuse gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops and peek-a-boo designs.

Echoes of Karl Lagerfeld’s '70s Chloé lingered in exaggerated shoulders and standout pieces, like a loose-fitting, vivid blue coat. “Chloé is not a passing moment; it’s an eternal state of mind,” Kamali noted, grounding her collection in the house’s long-standing ethos of optimism and instinct.

Layering played a central role, but Kamali kept it light and intuitive, reflecting what she called a “very personal way of dressing.” Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace mixed effortlessly with ribbed jerseys, creating looks that felt weightless and spontaneous, a signature of Kamali’s debut collection. “What matters to me is the feeling and intuition,” she said.

A standout moment came in the form of a dramatic trapeze-shaped silk gown, its dynamic silhouette swirling with movement. It epitomized Kamali’s ability to honor Chloé’s romantic roots while infusing a modern sensibility. “The mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful,” she explained. That joyful freedom was a defining thread from start to finish.

With her second outing, Kamali proved she is the right designer to lead Chloé. She crafted a spring collection that balanced nostalgia and sensuality while pushing the house toward a bright, optimistic future.

Casey Cadwallader delivered a striking show for Mugler, equal parts theatrical and innovative. The hair, sculpted into harsh fringes like a viper’s fang, set the tone for a collection defined by sharp architectural lines. Curving lapels adorned tight jackets, while tendrils of latticed silk flowed into skirts that bled vibrant yellows, creating a visual spectacle.

The collection boldly embraced femininity, featuring a bust that echoed the form of seashells and a densely packed bustier resembling a diving whale. This daring aesthetic aligns with Cadwallader’s aim to infuse the brand with a fresh energy, moving away from the extravagance that some original Mugler fans long for.

Oversized tubular arms complemented a webbed skirt-coat, while a transparent loose trench evoked the look of a sea medusa, reinforcing Cadwallader’s commitment to pushing boundaries.

Iconic British model Naomi Campbell was awarded a prestigious honor in France, being named a knight in the Order of Arts and Letters at the culture ministry for her significant contributions to French culture.

However, this recognition comes as Campbell faces scrutiny back home, having been barred from serving as a charity trustee in England and Wales for five years. This decision follows a three-year investigation into the financial activities of her charity, “Fashion for Relief,” which was found to have been “poorly governed” and lacking in “adequate financial management.”

The Charity Commission, which oversees charities in England and Wales, reported multiple instances of misconduct, revealing that only 8.5% of the charity’s expenditures went to charitable grants over a six-year period from 2016. Notably, the inquiry uncovered that charity funds were misused for Campbell’s luxury hotel stays during events in Cannes, alongside personal expenses such as spa treatments and room service.

In response to a question from the AP, Campbell said, “I’ve just found out today about the findings and I am extremely concerned. We are investigating on our side. I was not in control of my charity; I put the control in the hands of a legal employer. We are investigating to find out what and how, and everything I do and every penny I ever raised goes to charity.”

Alongside Campbell, fellow trustee Bianka Hellmich has been disqualified for nine years after receiving unauthorized payments for consultancy services, while trustee Veronica Chou has been barred for four years. The charity, founded in 2005 to unite the fashion industry in addressing global poverty, was dissolved earlier this year, having raised over $15 million for various causes worldwide.

Despite the controversy, Campbell’s honor in France highlights her lasting impact on the cultural landscape.

At Thursday’s show at the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens unleashed a captivating spectacle that felt like a dramatic descent into a realm inhabited by gothic aliens. The atmosphere was thick with smoke and suspense as an army of biblical figures marched out in impressive diagonal formations, their asymmetrical knee-high leather boots featuring translucent heels, making each step a statement.

Owens’ trademark angular, alien-like geometric shoulders dominated the runway, capturing the essence of his singular vision—one that merges dark romanticism with avant-garde aesthetics. The collection was a testament to his ability to blend his gothic instincts with a sense of reverent irreverence, reminiscent of the “delicate time” he referenced in previous collections, where beauty and horror coexist.

As the show unfolded, a billowing coven emerged, clad in oversized black priest-like hoods and flowing tulle cloaks that draped elegantly over their forms. Some models donned discreet headscarves, striking a balance between reverence and defiance, perfectly embodying Owens’ commentary on societal norms. This juxtaposition echoes his commitment to inclusivity, presenting a vision of fashion that celebrates diversity while challenging conventional beauty standards.

The intricate craftsmanship used in the collection exemplified Owens’ mastery. Each piece, from the cloaks to the striking silhouettes, invited viewers to appreciate humble fabrics. This aligns with his insistence that he presents “the most excellent aesthetics” possible, recognizing the nuanced interplay between the dark and the light in our world.

While some may find Owens’ aesthetic too avant-garde or even gloomy, this show reaffirmed his position as a provocative force in fashion. The theatricality and elaborate design remind us of his role as one of the last independent designers in Paris, navigating the complexities of the fashion landscape with fierce authenticity.

Associated Press journalist Marine Lesprit contributed to this report.

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Marina Ruy Barbosa the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Adriana Lima, left, speaks with a security guard upon departure from the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Balmain Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Wednesday, Sept. 25, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Designer Chemena Kamali accepts applause after the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Designer Chemena Kamali accepts applause after the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Diane Kruger, from left, Anna Wintour and Sienna Miller attend the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

WINDSOR, Calif. (AP) — Forecasters through the U.S. issued warnings that another round of winter weather could complicate travel leading up to the Thanksgiving holiday, while California and Washington state continue to recover from storm damage and power outages.

In California, where a person was found dead in a vehicle submerged in floodwaters on Saturday, authorities braced for more precipitation while grappling with flooding and small landslides from a previous storm.

The National Weather Service office in Sacramento, California, issued a winter storm warning for the state's Sierra Nevada for Saturday through Tuesday, with heavy snow expected at higher elevations and wind gusts potentially reaching 55 mph (88 kph). Total snowfall of roughly 4 feet (1.2 meters) was forecast, with the heaviest accumulations expected Monday and Tuesday.

The Midwest and Great Lakes regions will see rain and snow Monday and the East Coast will be the most impacted on Thanksgiving and Black Friday, forecasters said.

A low pressure system is forecast to bring rain to the Southeast early Thursday before heading to the Northeast. Areas from Boston to New York could see rain and breezy conditions, with snowfall possible in parts of northern New Hampshire, northern Maine and the Adirondacks. If the system tracks further inland, there could be less snow and more rain in the mountains, forecasters said.

“The system doesn’t look like a powerhouse right now,” Hayden Frank, a meteorologist with the National Weather Service in Massachusetts, said Sunday. “Basically, this is going to bring rain to the I-95 corridor so travelers should prepare for wet weather. Unless the system trends a lot colder, it looks like rain.”

Frank said he isn't seeing any major storm systems arriving for the weekend anywhere in the country so travelers heading home Sunday can expect good driving conditions. Temperatures, however, will get colder in the East while warming up out West.

Earlier this week, two people died when the storm arrived in the Pacific Northwest. Hundreds of thousands lost power, mostly in the Seattle area, before strong winds moved through Northern California. A rapidly intensifying “ bomb cyclone ” that hit the West Coast on Tuesday brought fierce winds that resulted in home and vehicle damage.

Rescue crews in Guerneville, California, recovered a body inside a vehicle bobbing in floodwaters around 11:30 a.m. Saturday, Sonoma County Sheriff’s Deputy Rob Dillion said, noting the deceased was presumed to be a victim of the storm but an autopsy had not yet been conducted.

Santa Rosa, California, saw its wettest three-day period on record with about 12.5 inches (32 centimeters) of rain by Friday evening, the National Weather Service in the Bay Area reported. Vineyards in nearby Windsor, California, were flooded on Saturday.

About 36,000 people in the Seattle area were still without electricity after this season’s strongest atmospheric river, a long plume of moisture that forms over an ocean and flows over land.

Another storm brought rain to New York and New Jersey, where rare wildfires have raged in recent weeks, and heavy snow to northeastern Pennsylvania. The precipitation was expected to help ease drought conditions after an exceptionally dry fall.

“It’s not going to be a drought buster, but it’s definitely going to help when all this melts,” said Bryan Greenblatt, a National Weather Service meteorologist in Binghamton, New York.

Heavy snow fell in northeastern Pennsylvania, including the Pocono Mountains. Higher elevations reported up to 17 inches (43 centimeters), with lesser accumulations in valley cities including Scranton and Wilkes-Barre. Around 35,000 customers in 10 counties are still without power, down from 80,000 a day ago.

In the Catskills region of New York, nearly 10,000 people remained without power on Sunday morning, two days after a storm dumped heavy snow on parts of the region.

Precipitation in West Virginia helped put a dent in the state’s worst drought in at least two decades and boosted ski resorts preparing to open their slopes in the weeks ahead.

Associated Press writer Claire Rush in Portland, Oregon, contributed to this report.

A rainbow is seen as a vehicle drives past a flooded vineyard after a major storm in Forestville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

John Phillips, front, and neighbor Kevin Ozorkiewicz row a canoe at the flooded Mirabel RV Park & Campground after a major storm in Forestville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Floodwater surrounds Pee Wee Golf & Arcade after a major storm in Guerneville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

A partially submerged structure stands in floodwaters near Mays Canyon after a major storm in Guerneville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Property off River Road floods as the Russian River overflows in Sonoma County, Calif., on Friday, Nov. 22, 2024. (Santiago Mejia/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Wohler Road off River Road is closed off as the Russian River floods in Sonoma County, Calif., on Friday, Nov. 22, 2024. (Santiago Mejia/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Firefighters walk through floodwaters while responding to a rescue call in unincorporated Sonoma County, Calif., on Friday, Nov. 22, 2024. (AP Photo/Noah Berger)

A vineyard remains flooded after heavy storms Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024, in Windsor, Calif. (AP Photo/Godofredo A. Vásquez)

A person crosses a street during a break in rain Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024, in San Francisco. (AP Photo/Andy Bao)

A vineyard remains flooded after heavy storms Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024, in Windsor, Calif. (AP Photo/Godofredo A. Vásquez)

A vineyard remains flooded after heavy storms Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024, in Windsor, Calif. (AP Photo/Godofredo A. Vásquez)

Dave Edmonds, right, and Mike Raasch ride their bicycles on a flooded road Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024, in Windsor, Calif. (AP Photo/Godofredo A. Vásquez)

A tree is surrounded by floodwater following heavy storms in Forestville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (AP Photo/Godofredo A. Vásquez)

Sitting on a canoe, John Phillips works to shut down power at a flooded building at Mirabel RV Park & Campground after a major storm in Forestville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

A car is seen submerged in flooded water at Mirabel RV Park & Campground after severe weather in Forestville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Residents watch as Ben Cote rows a boat across a flooded Neely road after a major storm in Guerneville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Tristan Millstone reacts as he steps in water after kayaking across a flooded section of Neely Road to buy groceries after a major storm in Guerneville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Tim Bosque, owner of Pee Wee Golf & Arcade, kayaks in flood water to recover items that floated away after a major storm in Guerneville, Calif., Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)

Kevin Ozorkiewicz, left, and neighbor John Phillips row a canoe at the flooded Mirabel RV Park & Campground after a major storm in Forestville, Calif., Sonoma County, Saturday, Nov. 23, 2024. (Stephen Lam/San Francisco Chronicle via AP)