Valentino's new designer puts on maximalist Paris ready-to-wear debut

PARIS (AP) — Alessandro Michele’s eagerly awaited ready-to-wear Paris Fashion Week debut at Valentino was unveiled in a setting that hinted at a transformation— a living room in flux. Stools, ladders, and lamps shrouded beneath white blankets evoked a house renovation, signaling not just change, but a conscious revival of past glories. The scene, poetic and subdued, perfectly set the stage for a “maximalist-lite” spectacle that was equally haunted by history and illuminated by Michele’s unique flair.

Meanwhile, under the soaring ceilings of the École des Beaux Arts, overlooking the Seine, Sean McGirr’s sophomore ready-to-wear show for Alexander McQueen arrived with a palpable sense of relief. The shift in setting — from a bleak industrial warehouse outside Paris to this iconic venue — reflected a fresh start for McGirr, whose uncertain debut had left critics shivering, both literally and figuratively. Now, with the benefit of more time to prepare, McGirr appeared more at ease, though hints of his sometimes overly simplistic approach still lingered.

Here are some highlights of spring-summer 2025 ready-to-wear shows:

The mood was set with haunting music and the steady beat of a drum, creating an ambiance charged with drama and anticipation. Michele, who made headlines earlier this year after being named the new creative director of Valentino, following his successful reign at Gucci, brought with him much of his recognizable style. Yet there was a distinctive evolution in his vision — less overtly ostentatious, but still unmistakably eclectic.

Feathers floated on hats, soft and playful. Lingerie peeked through delicate layers. Flowers, fortune tellers’ hats, sparkling embellishments — all coalesced into an eclectic wardrobe that carried a vintage feel. Michele, it seemed, was teasing apart the DNA of both houses he knows intimately: the exuberance of Gucci and the ethereal heritage of Valentino.

Some of the pieces felt familiar to longtime Valentino admirers: the feminine nipped-waist dress, the floppy floral gown with its tiered skirt, and the iconic Valentino red that made its dramatic entrance. Yet in Michele’s hands, these classics were playfully twisted — feathers replaced fur on a billowing stole, and the result was a softer, more modern take that eschewed excessive luxury.

Jared Leto was among the VIPs who sat in the front row, a testament to Michele’s continued draw among Hollywood’s elite. The designer, who had risen to international recognition by infusing Gucci with his beloved “Geek-Chic” aesthetic, seemed to bring a similar ethos to Valentino, though filtered through a more graceful, couture lens.

Throughout his tenure at Gucci, Michele was celebrated for prioritizing his personal vision over the often suffocating codes of heritage houses, and Sunday’s show echoed that defiant spirit.

The opening tailored suit, its lapels rolled as if to ward off an unexpected London downpour, seemed a pointed metaphor — perhaps a shield against the relentless skepticism that followed his first runway outing. This season, McGirr turned to a reference steeped in both his heritage and McQueen’s early days: the dark romance of the “Banshee” show. In doing so, he anchored his own identity more deeply in the label’s legacy, embracing a Gothic allure that was more commercially viable this time around.

It was a collection of contrasts. The precise tailoring echoed McQueen’s subversion of British suiting, twisting and clutching fabric in ways that seemed as though it had been caught in a sudden gust. However, this wasn’t always effective. One such example — a jagged, off-white tuxedo — felt more like a costume of restraint. This overly simplistic take on tailoring lacked the subtle layering and tension that distinguished Sarah Burton’s previous work for the house.

Where McGirr truly shone, however, was in his eveningwear — an area that has become increasingly vital in the era of celebrity-driven fashion. The shimmering embroideries and featherlight silks, frayed and distressed in lilac georgette, signaled his understanding of red carpet glamour. The brushed white chiffon minidress, paired with a gold beaded and sequined jacket, made a convincing case for the designer’s growing confidence. And when the silver chains traced the body’s lines, their intricate embroidery brought a level of audacity that was finally worthy of McQueen.

The night’s high point was a look of pure excess: an extreme gown embroidered with glistening silver chains that seemed to catch every glimmer of light in the venue. It was an ensemble that Daphne Guinness herself — who watched approvingly from the front row — might have worn in a heartbeat.

Despite his strides, McGirr’s sophomore effort still carried the weight of a designer learning the ropes of a storied brand.

Akris’ Sunday collection had the audience leaning in, not for any over-the-top spectacle, but for the luxurious subtleties that Albert Kriemler so masterfully crafts. The designer, true to form, took the trench coat idea — a staple of the wardrobe — and transformed it into something distinctly Akris. With utilitarian detailing threaded through every seam, this was an exercise in functional luxury, the kind that Kriemler has long perfected. His designs don’t shout; they whisper.

The collection opened with takes on trenches, each reimagined to fuse practicality with fashion-forward flair. Minimalism, too, reigned supreme, with looks that kept embellishments at bay to let the craftsmanship shine. A flat, clean-cut fabric top paired with culottes nodded to the timeless Akris aesthetic — unfussy, luxurious, and quietly powerful. This was minimalism of the highest quality, a testament to Kriemler’s commitment to making clothes that defy the viral trend, focusing instead on timeless appeal.

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Alex Ovechkin's teammates have gotten used to him passing hockey greats and reaching new milestones on a regular basis. The greatest of the great is yet to come.

All eyes are on Ovechkin as he closes in on Wayne Gretzky's NHL career goals record of 894. He is just 42 away from breaking a mark that long seemed untouchable, something that could happen as soon as this coming spring. The Washington Capitals captain will be atop another impressive list much sooner.

Ovechkin has scored against 175 different goaltenders since making his debut in 2005. Four more “victims” will put him ahead of Patrick Marleau and Jaromir Jagr for the most in league history. Many of the masked men Ovechkin has tormented over the years are in awe of what he can do on the ice and, in some cases, rooting for him to get to 895 goals and beyond.

“It’s not going to be surprising,” said Pittsburgh's Alex Nedeljkovic, who allowed two goals to Ovechkin last season in his first two games facing him. “I would not be surprised if he broke it this year. I wouldn’t be surprised if he broke it by Christmas, to be honest with you, but that’s just the kind of goal scorer he is. I think it’s well within reach.”

Ovechkin has averaged 0.6 goals per game over his long career, a pace that would set him up to threaten the record by late March. He scored 31 last season after going on a second-half tear, so the 40-goal mark would require a return to younger form.

He just turned 39 and already has outpaced scorers his age throughout hockey history to get to 817, so it would be silly to rule out the record this season, his 20th. He is under contract next season, too.

“I’m hoping he’s going to break the record, and I think he will maybe this year,” said Chicago's Petr Mrazek, who has allowed nine goals to Ovechkin. “That’s the way he shoots, that’s the way he scores, so it’s not easy to stop him and you have to be lucky, as well.”

Nearly a decade later, Mrazek remembers his third game against Ovechkin like it was yesterday. The Russian superstar on the way to his seventh of nine career 50-goal seasons put 15 shots on net, Mrazek turned them all aside and Detroit won 1-0.

“He used to be my favorite shooter to stop,” Mrazek said.

Favorite teammate, favorite player to watch — rarely favorite shooter to go up against.

Still, goalies like Philadelphia's Samuel Ersson likes the challenge so much that he has enjoyed getting the chance to face pucks fired at him from Ovechkin.

“His shot is lethal,” said Ersson, who allowed Ovechkin's 853rd and most recent goal. "He finds a lot of ways to put pucks through goaltenders, and it’s something you’ve always got to be aware of, where he is. It’s one of those things that you might even be focusing a little bit too much on him and something else happens."

Hall of Famer Martin Brodeur always found that difficult, given the Capitals in their prime had not only Ovechkin but Nicklas Backstrom, Mike Green, John Carlson and others to score. Brodeur compared Ovechkin's shot to fellow Russian scoring wingers Ilya Kovalchuk and Alexander Mogilny, and said he had to be aware all the time just like when he was facing Brett Hull.

"Everybody’s looking for him all the time," said Brodeur, who allowed seven goals in 21 regular-season games against Ovechkin. “Even though you know he’s there, he still get gets it done."

Colorado's Alexandar Georgiev is now among Ovechkin's most scored-on goalies with 10, largely because of his time with the New York Rangers. He is still behind all-time netminders like Marc-Andre Fleury (27), Henrik Lundqvist (24), Carey Price (22) and Sergei Bobrovsky (16) and said it is “incredible how he can just fly it.”

“Almost like he controls it with a remote,” Georgiev said.

Brodeur early on never thought Ovechkin would even come close to Gretzky and chalked it up not just to the shot and skill but health and longevity.

Brodeur is done standing in the way of Ovechkin's shots. No such luck for goalies like Utah's Karel Vejmelka, who faces Washington just twice a season and figures Ovechkin will break the record sometime.

“Yeah,” he said. "Hopefully not on me.”

This story has been corrected to show Ersson allowed Ovechkin's 853rd goal.

AP Hockey Writer John Wawrow in Buffalo and AP Sports Writers Pat Graham in Denver and Will Graves in Pittsburgh contributed to this report.

AP NHL: https://apnews.com/hub/nhl

FILE - Washington Capitals left wing Alex Ovechkin (8), followed by right wing Tom Wilson (43), is congratulated for his goal against the Philadelphia Flyers during the second period of an NHL hockey game, March 1, 2024, in Washington. (AP Photo/Manuel Balce Ceneta, File)

FILE - Washington Capitals left wing Alex Ovechkin (8) scores his second goal in the third period past New York Rangers goaltender Alexandar Georgiev in an NHL hockey game, Wednesday, Oct. 13, 2021, in Washington. (AP Photo/Alex Brandon, File)

FILE - Washington Capitals right wing Alex Ovechkin (8), from Russia, attempts to shoot over New Jersey Devils defenseman Andy Greene (6) as goalie Martin Brodeur (30) prepares to deflect the shot in the second period of an NHL hockey game, Saturday, Dec. 21, 2013, in Washington. (AP Photo/Alex Brandon, File)

FILE - Washington Capitals' Alex Ovechkin, left, reacts after scoring a goal against Philadelphia Flyers' Samuel Ersson during the first period of an NHL hockey game, Tuesday, April 16, 2024, in Philadelphia. (AP Photo/Matt Slocum, File)