This is a photo collection curated by AP photo editors.
An Indigenous boy stands next to a banner covered in red-ink hand prints during the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxo Indigenous aims his traditional bow and arrow during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man holds a sign that reads in Portuguese: "In defense of the Constitution" during the march coined: "We are the answer" in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025, during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous people discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people take part in the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people run away from tear gas fired by the police, after trying to enter Congress during the "We are the answer" march at the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people argue with police during the "We are the answer" march at the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
People watch Indigenous people taking part in the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man stands next to a large earth balloon during the march coined: "We are the answer" in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025, during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous people discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man participates in the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man attends a march coined: "We are the answer" in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025, during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous people discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous woman attends in the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people dig a hole for an empty coffin, symbolizing the death of lawmakers who they say are against their rights and territorial protection, during a march at the annual Free Earth camp in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous Chief Raoni Metuktire sits in a wheelchair during the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous person carries a scale during a march at the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxso Indigenous youth smokes a traditional pipe during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Brazilian Minister of Indigenous Peoples Sonia Guajajara, center, joins people at the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Kayapo Indigenous women attend the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Tupiniquim Indigenous youths play drums during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxo Indigenous woman carries her parrot during the week-long Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man takes photos with his cell phone during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Kayapo Indigenous women dance during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxo Indigenous person sings ritual music during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous crafts girls hang from a clothesline at the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous woman takes a photo of her daughters at the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people sell roasted fish at the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous Pataxo youth takes part in the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people protest outside Congress during the annual Free Earth camp in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
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Brazilian Minister of Indigenous Peoples Sonia Guajajara, center, joins people at the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous boy stands next to a banner covered in red-ink hand prints during the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxo Indigenous aims his traditional bow and arrow during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man holds a sign that reads in Portuguese: "In defense of the Constitution" during the march coined: "We are the answer" in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025, during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous people discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people take part in the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people run away from tear gas fired by the police, after trying to enter Congress during the "We are the answer" march at the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people argue with police during the "We are the answer" march at the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
People watch Indigenous people taking part in the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man stands next to a large earth balloon during the march coined: "We are the answer" in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025, during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous people discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man participates in the "We are the answer" march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man attends a march coined: "We are the answer" in Brasilia, Brazil, Thursday, April 10, 2025, during the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous people discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous woman attends in the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people dig a hole for an empty coffin, symbolizing the death of lawmakers who they say are against their rights and territorial protection, during a march at the annual Free Earth camp in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous Chief Raoni Metuktire sits in a wheelchair during the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30 which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous person carries a scale during a march at the annual Free Earth camp where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where they discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people march during the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxso Indigenous youth smokes a traditional pipe during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Brazilian Minister of Indigenous Peoples Sonia Guajajara, center, joins people at the annual Free Earth camp, where Brazil's Indigenous communities discuss rights, territorial protection and their role in COP30, which will take place for the first time in the Amazon, in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Kayapo Indigenous women attend the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Tupiniquim Indigenous youths play drums during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxo Indigenous woman carries her parrot during the week-long Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous man takes photos with his cell phone during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Kayapo Indigenous women dance during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
A Pataxo Indigenous person sings ritual music during the Free Earth camp held annually to demand more government attention to Indigenous issues in Brasilia, Brazil, Monday, April 7, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous crafts girls hang from a clothesline at the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous woman takes a photo of her daughters at the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people sell roasted fish at the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
An Indigenous Pataxo youth takes part in the Free Earth camp, demanding the government pay more attention to Indigenous issues, in Brasilia, Brazil, Sunday, April 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
Indigenous people protest outside Congress during the annual Free Earth camp in Brasilia, Brazil, Tuesday, April 8, 2025. (AP Photo/Eraldo Peres)
ROME (AP) — Two papal tailors and no conclave orders.
The conclave that begins next Wednesday to elect a successor for Pope Francis is the first in 46 ½ years for which the Vatican hasn't ordered a set of cassocks for the new head of the Catholic Church — at least from the two best-known papal tailors.
That isn’t stopping Ranieri Mancinelli, who opened his ecclesiastical tailoring shop near the Vatican in the 1960s, from making three simple white cassocks just in case: the traditional small, medium and large sizes to cover all possible heights and girths.
"I'm doing this on my own to be able to present these cassocks for the next pope, without knowing who he will be,” Mancinelli said.
Gammarelli, another family-run ecclesiastical tailor near the Pantheon in the historic center, has a paper trail showing it has received cassock orders for every conclave since the beginning of the 20th century — and probably far earlier. Gammarelli has been making garments for priests, bishops and cardinals since 1798.
The last time no pre-conclave order came in to the Vatican's tailor of choice, Gammarelli, was October 1978, when cardinal electors voted a successor to Pope John Paul I, who died after 33 days as pontiff, said Lorenzo Gammarelli, representing the sixth generation of the family business.
Gammarelli won't speculate why no order was made this year, but Italian media suggests the Vatican has enough unworn cassocks on hand, and is honoring Pope Francis’ message of environmental and economic sustainability.
“Obviously, we're a little sorry, because in the sadness caused by the death of the Holy Father, we still would have the beautiful thing of having to make the trousseau for the new one. Not this time," Gammarelli said.
The Vatican declined to comment on what is being viewed as the great papal cassock race. “I don’t think I need to speak on behalf of businesses,” said Vatican spokesman Matteo Bruni. “Not every curiosity needs to be answered.”
For a pope’s first encounter with the flock, the basic garment is the hand-stitched white wool cassock with cape and wide silk sleeves. The cassock is fastened by silk buttons and worn with a silk brocade sash with gold fringe. All popes, until Francis, had this sash later embroidered with his papal seal.
Francis also eschewed the classic burgundy red mozzetta, a short elbow-length cape worn for formal occasions, and a gold embroidered stole, not only the night of his election but throughout his papacy.
The papal garb is finished with a white “zucchetto,” or skullcap that is also worn by cardinals in red and bishops in purple.
When they are called on to provide a conclave order, Gammarelli also provides shoes in an array of sizes so the new pope will be comfortable when presented to his flock. After that, Gammarelli said, “shoes are a very personal matter."
Francis favored plain black shoes and was buried in a pair with the scuff marks showing.
In keeping with the secrecy of the conclave, Gammarelli never reveals papal prices.
While the world speculates on who will be the next pope, Gammarelli's job is more practical. The family has a system to best outfit the unknown successor, using data from their cardinal clients and sizing up cardinal candidates who are not.
"We consider who, in our opinion, could be elected," Gammarelli said. "We pull out their measurements, and … we make three cassocks that would more or less fit all of them.’’
Their best guesses are sometimes off.
Gammarelli said they never imagined that Polish Cardinal Karol Wojtyla would become pope in October 1978. They had considered Argentine Cardinal Jorge Mario Bergoglio a candidate in 2005 (when Benedict XVI was elected) but not in 2013, when Bergoglio became the church’s first Latin American pope.
Back in 1958, the portly John XXIII appeared on the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica with safety pins holding together the back of his cassock, after a too-small size was mistakenly grabbed, forcing aides to open the back.
Gammarelli said that throughout Francis' 12-year papacy he tried to persuade the pope to wear white pants under his cassock. But Francis stuck with the black trousers of a priest, a reminder to himself and everyone that he was a pastor at heart.
Mancinelli, at his shop just steps from the Vatican, has made cassocks for the last three popes: St. John Paul II, Pope Benedict XVI and Pope Francis.
He got to know Benedict when he was a cardinal, living near Mancinelli’s shop. Francis later invited him to his apartment in the Santa Marta residence, marking “the beginning of a very pleasant encounter period.”
While Gammarelli won't make the cassocks on speculation, Mancinelli is making three to give to the Vatican, in Francis’ simple, unadorned style, all in white.
“Compared with the other two, Francis preferred much simpler and much more practical things," he said, also taking costs into account.
Only after the words “Habemus Papam!” are announced from the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica will it be clear whether the Catholic Church’s 267th pontiff will follow Francis’s unembellished example or will bring back traditional papal trappings, like flashes of red.
Associated Press video journalist Silvia Stellacci contributed to this report.
Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli. who on his own initiative is making outfits for a possible future Pope, works on a pontiff's robe inside his shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli. who on his own initiative is making outfits for a possible future Pope, works on a pontiff's robe inside his shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Crosses are displayed inside the shop of Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli, in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli ,who on his own initiative is making outfits for a possible future Pope, is interviewed by the Associated Press inside his shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
A picture of Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli and late Pope Benedict XVI hangs inside Mancinelli's shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli, who on his own initiative is making outfits for a possible future Pope, shows a pontiff's skull cap as he is interviewed by the Associated Press inside his shop, in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli, who on his own initiative is making outfits for a possible future Pope, shows a pontiff's unfinished garment as he is interviewed by the Associated Press inside his shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Priests visit the shop of Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli, in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli, who on his own initiative is making outfits for a possible future Pope, shows a pontiff's unfinished garment as he is interviewed by the Associated Press inside his shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli. who on his own initiative is making outfits for a possible future Pope, works on a pontiff's robe inside his shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
A picture of Italian tailor Raniero Mancinelli and Pope Francis hangs inside Mancinelli's shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
A white Pope skull cap is seen inside the Raniero Mancinelli tailor shop, in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Gregorio Borgia)
A painting hangs inside the dressing room of the Gammarelli Ecclesiastic clothes tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)
Portraits of late Popes hang at the Gammarelli ecclesiastic clothes tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)
A tailor works at the Gammarelli ecclesiastic clothes tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)
A crucifix hangs over a mirror reflecting ecclesiastic clothes inside the dressing room at the Gammarelli tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)
A tailor uses a pattern to cut fabric at the Gammarelli ecclesiastic clothes tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)
Fabric sits on shelves at the Gammarelli ecclesiastic clothes tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)
A tailor works at the Gammarelli ecclesiastic clothes tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)
A Pope skullcap lays in the display window of the Gammarelli ecclesiastic clothes tailor shop in Rome, Wednesday, April 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Francisco Seco)