Chloe goes romantic in Paris; Kenzo pays homage to Rousseau

A romantic Victorian spirit infused many of the fluid dresses and silk shirts shown Thursday at Chloe during Paris Fashion Week's fall-winter 2018 shows.

FILE - In this Friday, Jan. 20, 2017 file photo, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci acknowledges applause at the end of Givenchy Men's Fall Winter 2017-2018 fashion collection presented in Paris. Burberry has on named Riccardo Tisci as its chief creative officer, replacing Christopher Bailey. (AP Photo/Francois Mori, file)

Kenzo channeled painter Henri Rousseau's jungle aesthetic with striped knitted skirts and tops in eye-popping colors while Manish Arora mixed the vibrant colors of the Indian subcontinent with styles in Japan.

Here are some highlights:

A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

CHLOE PILES ON THE ROMANCE IN PARIS

French actress Isabelle Huppert and model Alexa Chung were among notables at Natacha Ramsay-Levi's sophomore effort for Chloe. The low-key designer worked romance into the house's signature '70s boho aesthetic for a strong collection in pared-down hues.

The decorative show mixed up a "kaleidoscope of identities," with romantic fluid dresses and silk shirts. High collars met long bell sleeves and lashings of lace.

Gold chains, jewelry and low slung belts added movement to already kinetic silhouettes in which skirts were cut on the bias or floppily pleated.

Model of the moment Kaia Jordan Gerber, the 16-year-old daughter of Cindy Crawford, strutted out with a gold chain adorning a beautiful eggshell-colored 70's skin coat.

But the strongest feature of the collection was its wild fur trims that showed off the skill Ramsay-Levi acquired at Louis Vuitton. A dark vanilla shirt dress had a silken fur fringe that cascaded out of horizontal paneling, even causing icy-cool U.S. Vogue Chief Anna Wintour to turn her head.

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KENZO'S HOMAGE TO HENRI ROUSSEAU

Although his day job was fashion designer, retired house-founder Kenzo Takada was an amateur artist of some talent who has painted several reproductions of "The Dream," the Henri Rousseau masterpiece.

He was first struck by the painting in 1965 when he saw it hanging in Paris' Orangery Museum. "I fell in love," Takada said.

The original two-by-three meter oil painting, which today hangs in MOMA, depicts a naked woman reclining on a chaise longue amid a jungle scene.

For each reproduction he made, Takada would paint someone he knew in place of the reclining woman, and each canvas would be hung in a different Kenzo boutique.

Ahead of their show, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim met with the Rousseau family to secure the rights to use the painting as a touchstone for the presentation.

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A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

KENZO'S BANQUET SHOW

Guests arriving in the ornate Paris Mint venue could hardly believe their eyes. In a historic mirrored salon, set across long tables, tasty cheeses, exotic fruits, wines and nuts spilled out onto foliage.

Kenzo had prepared a jungle-themed Bacchic banquet.

As the show began, ushers with white aprons carried large replicas of canvas reproductions of Rousseau's. At one point, some guests were shocked when a naked woman appeared covered in body paint, in a reference to the 1910 painting's subject.

One model wrapped inside an all-encompassing 3-meter (9-foot) jungle-bush sculpture caused guests to laugh when he nearly took out one of the decor lights.

The artistic musing infused the clothes. In a stripe-heavy aesthetic, knitted skirts and tops were delivered in eye-popping colors such as Cerulean blue, bright red and yellow, evoking the hues of the jungle.

A heavy diagonal ruffle down a skirt gave it a vibrant dynamic. And myriad colored scarves were piled up on top of one other.

Elsewhere, Rousseau was more explicitly referenced through "tapestry jacquards" in tops, dresses and pants as well as in shearling coats.

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A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

MANISH ARORA PRODUCES AN EASTERN CORNOCOPIA

At his Paris Fashion Week show, New Delhi-based Manish Arora fused the vibrant color of the Indian subcontinent with traditional and contemporary styles of Japan.

The result was explosive.

The kimono was the starting point and it was evoked from head to toe. Dramatic top knots led down to thick multicolored scarves tied like Obi belts around the neck. Faces were sometimes painted like a Geisha with big red lips. Shoes were a take on the wooden Geta clog.

In the clothing, silken kimono looks with oversize sleeves were fastened with tight belted waists and buried by multiple layers of thick fabric.

And then there were the colors. The bubblegum pink, blinding orange, reds, blues and greens seemed to hit every hue on the planet.

The vivid street style of Japan's Harajuku Girls was evoked in one blue-and-yellow look that grabbed attention.

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ModelS wear creations for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Models wear creations for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Models wear creations for Manish Arora's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Thursday, March 1, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

CARVEN'S HOMLINESS

It was a fashion-forward collection for Serge Ruffieux at Carven. Using techniques of deconstruction, color blocking and pattern blocking, the former Dior staffer showed off his extensive design repertoire.

There was a raggedly homeliness to many of the looks. They used contrasting check and floral patterns in a scruffy, deconstructed way.

Grandmotherly chintz-like motifs adorned fabrics that peeped out from below jackets, accessorized by furry slipper-type shoes or big knitted socks.

Several garments looked intentionally unfinished — such as one tight beige dress with feint stitching that evoked the template on a mannequin. It produced a complex yet whimsical display.

PARIS (AP) — Chemena Kamali’s sophomore collection for Chloé was a luminous exploration of femininity, blending the house’s heritage with a fresh, sensual energy for spring. Set against a backdrop of sun-faded apricots, blushes and soft whites, the Paris collection captured Kamali’s vision of a summer that she surmised as: “when you pause, escape, explore and recharge.” It celebrated Chloé’s free-spirited DNA, infused with a lightness that felt both nostalgic and forward-looking.

Here are some highlights of Thursday's shows at Paris Fashion Week, including a French honor for Naomi Campbell:

“There’s a liberating expression of total freedom,” Kamali said of her spring display.

This freedom flowed through silk charmeuse gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops and peek-a-boo designs.

Echoes of Karl Lagerfeld’s '70s Chloé lingered in exaggerated shoulders and standout pieces, like a loose-fitting, vivid blue coat. “Chloé is not a passing moment; it’s an eternal state of mind,” Kamali noted, grounding her collection in the house’s long-standing ethos of optimism and instinct.

Layering played a central role, but Kamali kept it light and intuitive, reflecting what she called a “very personal way of dressing.” Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace mixed effortlessly with ribbed jerseys, creating looks that felt weightless and spontaneous, a signature of Kamali’s debut collection. “What matters to me is the feeling and intuition,” she said.

A standout moment came in the form of a dramatic trapeze-shaped silk gown, its dynamic silhouette swirling with movement. It epitomized Kamali’s ability to honor Chloé’s romantic roots while infusing a modern sensibility. “The mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful,” she explained. That joyful freedom was a defining thread from start to finish.

With her second outing, Kamali proved she is the right designer to lead Chloé. She crafted a spring collection that balanced nostalgia and sensuality while pushing the house toward a bright, optimistic future.

Casey Cadwallader delivered a striking show for Mugler, equal parts theatrical and innovative. The hair, sculpted into harsh fringes like a viper’s fang, set the tone for a collection defined by sharp architectural lines. Curving lapels adorned tight jackets, while tendrils of latticed silk flowed into skirts that bled vibrant yellows, creating a visual spectacle.

The collection boldly embraced femininity, featuring a bust that echoed the form of seashells and a densely packed bustier resembling a diving whale. This daring aesthetic aligns with Cadwallader’s aim to infuse the brand with a fresh energy, moving away from the extravagance that some original Mugler fans long for.

Oversized tubular arms complemented a webbed skirt-coat, while a transparent loose trench evoked the look of a sea medusa, reinforcing Cadwallader’s commitment to pushing boundaries.

Iconic British model Naomi Campbell was awarded a prestigious honor in France, being named a knight in the Order of Arts and Letters at the culture ministry for her significant contributions to French culture.

However, this recognition comes as Campbell faces scrutiny back home, having been barred from serving as a charity trustee in England and Wales for five years. This decision follows a three-year investigation into the financial activities of her charity, “Fashion for Relief,” which was found to have been “poorly governed” and lacking in “adequate financial management.”

The Charity Commission, which oversees charities in England and Wales, reported multiple instances of misconduct, revealing that only 8.5% of the charity’s expenditures went to charitable grants over a six-year period from 2016. Notably, the inquiry uncovered that charity funds were misused for Campbell’s luxury hotel stays during events in Cannes, alongside personal expenses such as spa treatments and room service.

In response to a question from the AP, Campbell said, “I’ve just found out today about the findings and I am extremely concerned. We are investigating on our side. I was not in control of my charity; I put the control in the hands of a legal employer. We are investigating to find out what and how, and everything I do and every penny I ever raised goes to charity.”

Alongside Campbell, fellow trustee Bianka Hellmich has been disqualified for nine years after receiving unauthorized payments for consultancy services, while trustee Veronica Chou has been barred for four years. The charity, founded in 2005 to unite the fashion industry in addressing global poverty, was dissolved earlier this year, having raised over $15 million for various causes worldwide.

Despite the controversy, Campbell’s honor in France highlights her lasting impact on the cultural landscape.

At Thursday’s show at the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens unleashed a captivating spectacle that felt like a dramatic descent into a realm inhabited by gothic aliens. The atmosphere was thick with smoke and suspense as an army of biblical figures marched out in impressive diagonal formations, their asymmetrical knee-high leather boots featuring translucent heels, making each step a statement.

Owens’ trademark angular, alien-like geometric shoulders dominated the runway, capturing the essence of his singular vision—one that merges dark romanticism with avant-garde aesthetics. The collection was a testament to his ability to blend his gothic instincts with a sense of reverent irreverence, reminiscent of the “delicate time” he referenced in previous collections, where beauty and horror coexist.

As the show unfolded, a billowing coven emerged, clad in oversized black priest-like hoods and flowing tulle cloaks that draped elegantly over their forms. Some models donned discreet headscarves, striking a balance between reverence and defiance, perfectly embodying Owens’ commentary on societal norms. This juxtaposition echoes his commitment to inclusivity, presenting a vision of fashion that celebrates diversity while challenging conventional beauty standards.

The intricate craftsmanship used in the collection exemplified Owens’ mastery. Each piece, from the cloaks to the striking silhouettes, invited viewers to appreciate humble fabrics. This aligns with his insistence that he presents “the most excellent aesthetics” possible, recognizing the nuanced interplay between the dark and the light in our world.

While some may find Owens’ aesthetic too avant-garde or even gloomy, this show reaffirmed his position as a provocative force in fashion. The theatricality and elaborate design remind us of his role as one of the last independent designers in Paris, navigating the complexities of the fashion landscape with fierce authenticity.

Associated Press journalist Marine Lesprit contributed to this report.

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Marina Ruy Barbosa the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Adriana Lima, left, speaks with a security guard upon departure from the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Balmain Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Wednesday, Sept. 25, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Designer Chemena Kamali accepts applause after the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Designer Chemena Kamali accepts applause after the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Diane Kruger, from left, Anna Wintour and Sienna Miller attend the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)