VIACHA, Bolivia (AP) — In the huddled markets, sprawling farms and pulsing parties of Viacha, a town southeast of Bolivia’s capital, it's typical for women to sport bowler hats, tiered skirts and fringed shawls.
What's less typical is for the fashion spotlight to turn to these outfits — worn by “Cholas,” Indigenous women from the highland Altiplano.
Click to Gallery
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
Women model creations by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
Women model creations by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
Women model creations by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
But late Friday in Viacha, some 22 kilometers (13 miles) from Bolivia's capital of La Paz — over 12,000 feet (3,650 meters) above sea level — awe-struck teenage boys and proud mothers throbbed the main square as the town’s dirt roadway was briefly transformed into a runway.
One by one, the girls from Viacha — mostly students between 15-25 years old — strutted down the catwalk to a surprising soundtrack of early 2000s American pop music. Street vendors hawked hot dogs and empanadas. Supporters cheered in Spanish and the Indigenous Aymaran language.
Wearing glittering shoes and brightly colored, bunched-out skirts called “polleras,” the amateur models of all heights and sizes twirled, tipped their hats and threw sultry glances at the crowd.
“Years ago, people would associate these skirts with the fields, they'd look down on us as rural peasants,” said Rogelia Canaviri, 42, who couldn't stop smiling as she watched her daughter, Carolina, stride down the runway in dangling pearl earrings, the sequins on her layer-cake red skirt catching the stage lights.
“It's something I'm proud of, to see my daughter and her friends enjoy what I've worn for work my whole life," she said, pointing to the wool shawl, velvet hat and lower-key beige pollera she had on — the same clothes, she said, she still wears to milk her cows and sell her cheese at open-air markets. Her own mother did the same.
Generations ago, the Aymara were subject to waves of conquest and dispossession, first by the Inca, then by the Spanish, who forced the Indigenous communities to abandon their traditional way of dressing and adopt the style then-popular in the court of Seville.
Legend has it that the jaunty felt bowler hat became critical to the get-up after being introduced by British railway workers in the 1920s.
Bolivia's whiter, more affluent population has used “Chola” — and its diminutive, “Cholita” — as dismissive racial epithets. But in recent decades that stigma has dissipated, with Indigenous Aymara proudly reclaiming the word and younger Bolivians rediscovering the charm of their mothers' and grandmothers' vibrant garments.
“I think the ‘Cholita’ has become something very interesting, very exciting in our current context,” said Brittany Cantuta Valeria, 21, a first-time model, her hat brimmed upward and cheeks flushed a reddish gold.
“We’re now at the point of being respected because of everything that’s been implemented, so I wear this to have fun, to show off, to go to parties and dances. I have nothing to do with working the fields.”
Most of the girls parading onstage Friday, in the show organized by the Viacha municipality, grew up during the tenure of former leftist President Evo Morales (2006-2019), the country’s first-ever Indigenous president whose championing of Bolivia's Indigenous majority earned him fervent support across the cinderblock and adobe homes of the Altiplano.
Morales instituted a new constitution, which, among other things, expanded recognition for Bolivia’s 36 ethnic groups. He promoted the teaching of Indigenous languages and boosted state funding for folkloric arts. More Chola runway shows and beauty contests cropped up, widening the reach of Bolivia's native highland culture.
But fashion fanfare was largely limited to La Paz, the seat of the government. Before Friday, the town of Viacha, like most of the other villages across these austere mountain-rimmed plains, had never taken its turn on the runway.
“I was really nervous but I realized this is the first time for all of us,” said 15-year-old Tomasa Ramirez. “I feel so pretty. Now I know it’s my dream to be a Cholita model.”
With Bolivia's economic crisis closing like a vise on families whose money has diminished in value while the cost of food has doubled, many girls said walking the show was no easy feat.
Top-notch velvet hats and shawls made from vicuña wool with silk fringes can fetch thousands of dollars. Polleras cost a few hundred dollars. Then there's the jewelry — ideally made of real gold, pearls and diamonds when worn to these kinds of formal events.
“This year there was no way I could have real ones,” said Julieta Mamani, 16, pointing to her gold-colored earrings. “I hope things will be different next year.”
Watching her 24-year-old daughter pose for selfies in her elaborate skirt, Canaviri, the dairy farmer, has another hope.
“I hope she doesn't like wearing pants,” she said of her daughter. “I tried on pants once in my life, and I felt naked. Never again.”
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
Women model creations by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
Women model creations by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
Women model creations by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
A woman models a creation by a local designer at a Chola fashion show, promoting the Andean style and beauty of Aymara women, in Viacha, Bolivia, Friday, Nov. 29, 2024. (AP Photo/Juan Karita)
CHRISTCHURCH, New Zealand (AP) — Kane Williamson completed his second half century of the match and passed 9,000 test runs Saturday as he led New Zealand's faltering resistance to England's control on the third day of the first test.
Williamson followed his first innings 93 with 61 and was one of five batsmen to fall before New Zealand erased England's 151-run first innings lead.
At stumps, New Zealand was 155-6, four runs ahead and with only bowlers yet to bat. Daryl Mitchell was 31 not out and Nathan Smith was on one. Brydon Carse had 3-22 and seven wickets for the match.
England applied ‘Bazball’ principles to take charge of the match almost from the resumption Saturday, dashing past New Zealand's first innings of 348 and building a commanding first innings lead at almost six runs per over.
Harry Brook resumed at 132 and went on to 171 in a 159-run partnership with Ben Stokes who was 37 not out overnight and finished with 80.
Dashing late contributions from Gus Atkinson who made 48 from 26 balls and Carse who made 33 from 24 with three monstrous sixes piled more pain on New Zealand late in its innings as it made 499 all out.
In total, England added 180 runs in 33 overs Saturday at a tempo set by Brook who posted his seventh century and third-highest score in tests and Stokes who reached his 35th half century from 105 balls, then added his next 30 runs from 41 deliveries.
New Zealand then lost both openers, Tom Latham (1) and Devon Conway (8), with only 23 runs on the board and Rachin Ravindra (24) with 46 runs still needed to erase England's lead. Ravindra continues to show enormous promise but was out to rash shots in both innings.
Williamson provided an example of application to the rest of the New Zealand top order, continuing in his usual unflappable manner even after he was struck on the helmet by Stokes when on 26.
In contrast, Ravindra was lured into an unnecessary shot at a short ball by Carse, knowing that the trap had been set and was sprung when he was caught in the deep by Jacob Bethell.
Williamson passed 9,000 test runs in his 103rd test at an average of 54 when he reached 26. He went on to a half century from 74 balls when New Zealand was 117-3.
He was out with the total at 133-4, trapped lbw by Chris Woakes, and wicketkeeper Tom Blundell was caught behind next ball as New Zealand slumped to 133-5, still 18 runs behind England.
Mitchell and Phillips finally erased the England lead in the 45th over, 20 minutes before stumps. But Phillips fell for 19 shortly before the close of play when New Zealand was 153-6, its lead only two runs and with only the bowlers to come.
Earlier, Brook was helped again Saturday by New Zealand's poor catching. He was dropped for the fifth time in his innings, by Glenn Phillips at gully from the bowling of Will O'Rourke, when he was 132.
Brook was dropped four times on the second day: on 18 by Phillips in the gully, on 41 by Tom Latham at first slip, on 70 by Devon Conway in the deep and on 112 by wicketkeeper Tom Blundell off Matt Henry.
He was finally out, caught by Blundell from the bowling of Matt Henry, in the sixth over of the second new ball when England was 381-6. Brooks had come to the crease when England was 45-3 before lunch on day two.
He turned around England's innings in a 151-run partnership with Ollie Pope (77) and led his team into a dominant position with Stokes.
AP cricket: https://apnews.com/hub/cricket
England's Brydon Carse bats during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024.(John Davidson/Photosport via AP)
New Zealand's Tom Latham reacts after he was dismissed by England's Chris Woakes, second right, during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
Gus Atkinson of England reacts after taking a catch to dismiss New Zealand's Devon Conway during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024.(John Davidson/Photosport via AP)
New Zealand's Kane Williamson kicks at the ball during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
New Zealand's Daryl Mitchell bats during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
Gus Atkinson of England takes a catch to dismiss New Zealand's Devon Conway, left, during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024.(John Davidson/Photosport via AP)
England bowler Chris Woakes, second left, celebrates with teammates after taking the wicket of New Zealand's Kane Williamson during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
New Zealand's Kane Williamson bats during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
England bowler Chris Woakes runs down the wicket as he celebrates the dismissal of New Zealand batsman Tom Blundell, right, during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
England's Ben Stokes bats during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
England's Ben Stokes bats during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
England's Ben Stokes dives to to make his ground during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Chris Symes/Photosport via AP)
England's Harry Brook reacts after scoring a 150 runs during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
England's Harry Brook hits a six during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
England's Harry Brook, right, and teammate Ben Stokes run between the wickets during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024.(John Davidson/Photosport via AP)
England's Harry Brook bats during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024.(John Davidson/Photosport via AP)
England's Harry Brook reacts as he leaves the field after he was dismissed for 171 runs during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024.(John Davidson/Photosport via AP)
England's Harry Brook gestures to the crowd as he leaves the field after he was dismissed for a 171 runs during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Andrew Cornaga/Photosport via AP)
England's Ben Stokes bats during play on the third day of the first cricket test between England and New Zealand at Hagley Oval in Christchurch, New Zealand, Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024.(John Davidson/Photosport via AP)
